How to mount and wire a Starlink Mini on your vehicle

You have the mount in your hands, so this guide walks through the job in the order we recommend ourselves. Fixing the mount to a roof or a rack is something most owners are comfortable doing. The 12V wiring takes more care, and plenty of people hand that part to a professional.

1. Pick the mounting location

Starlink says the Mini needs a clear view of the sky, and its specification sheet lists a 110 degree field of view. In Starlink's words, objects such as a tree branch, a pole or a roof will cause service interruptions. On a vehicle our rule is simple: nothing on the roof should sit higher than the dish. Roof top tents, light bars, spare wheels and loaded baskets are the usual things to look out for.

The mount is 393mm long, 288mm wide and 60mm high, so check it fits the space you have in mind and that you can still reach the latch. If you are unsure about a spot, Starlink's own field of view guidance is the reference to follow, and the Starlink app has an obstruction tool for exactly this.

2. Choose your mounting hardware

The right hardware depends on what you are fixing to.

Roof rack or platform. The slotted base suits around 99 percent of roof racks. We always recommend the rack maker's own hardware, because it is made for that rack's channels. On an ARB Base Rack, for example, use ARB's own base rack blocks.

Straight onto a steel roof. Our XL magnetic mounting feet are 88mm across, rubber coated and have 42kg of pull each. We recommend four, and up to eight can be fitted. They bolt on from inside the mount, so they cannot be removed without unlocking it. If your roof has a slight curve, rubber grommets between the magnet plates and the base let each foot follow the roof. Magnets need steel, so they will not hold on an aluminium or fibreglass roof.

Ford Next-Gen Ranger with factory roof rails. We make a roof rail clamp for this vehicle. It is the only vehicle specific rail clamp we offer so far.

If your setup is unusual, please get in touch before you start. We are happy to help work out a solution, including custom fabrication.

3. Fix the mount

Fit your hardware to the slotted base and tighten everything evenly. The silicone sleeve included in the kit goes on the dish before it sits in the mount, and it is there to cushion the dish against vibration. Connect the mount's power lead to the dish and push the plug fully home.

When you close the lid, the push to close latch locks automatically. We chose that latch so the mount cannot be left unlocked by accident.

4. Plan the cable route

Before you run any cable, decide where the power will come from. The nearest suitable 12V source is usually the best one, because a shorter run loses less voltage along the way. Our guide to 12V voltage drop explains why that matters.

Look for a route that keeps the lead away from sharp edges, hot surfaces and moving parts. This planning is where an experienced installer earns their fee, especially on vehicles with a canopy or a second battery.

5. Run the lead and plug in

There is a fixed Anderson plug inside the mount. The vehicle cable comes up through the base and plugs into it, which keeps the connection inside the locked housing rather than out on the roof.

Our 5m lead has an Anderson plug at the mount end and bare conductors at the other end. We leave that end bare on purpose, so it can be finished to suit your vehicle.

6. Terminate the source end with a fuse

Fit ring terminals for a direct battery connection, or a cigarette style plug if you are taking power from inside the cab. The supply is protected by an inline 10A blade fuse. Keep the fuse as close to the power source as you can so the whole lead is protected, and check your polarity twice before you connect.

7. Power up and check the app

Open the Starlink app, confirm the dish comes online and run the obstruction check. The cooling fans in the mount are controlled by a thermostat and only switch on at around 45°C, so a quiet mount on a mild day is normal. Our guide to heat on the roof explains when they run. Every unit is powered up and its fans are tested before it leaves us.

Adding the Remote On/Off Switch

The optional Remote On/Off Switch is a plug in adapter that piggybacks into the input cable. It lets you switch the dish off from the ground, without unplugging it on the roof and without wiring a switch into the cab. It fits inside the mount, but aluminium interferes with the signal, so the range is better if you tuck it slightly out of the base.

When to call for help

If the wiring is outside your comfort zone, a Kettle Trusted Installer can take care of it. They are independent workshops and they set their own prices. If something about your vehicle does not suit the mount, contact us directly on admin@kettlecustoms.com or 03 7057 3469. We would much rather help you plan it properly than have you work around a problem on the roof.